Wednesday in Caen.

First time I have found an open internet place since Saturday. I even waited in the rain for it to be open. Gotta love the two hour lunch break taken by most shops in these parts. That is if you work here.

Originally I was to be in Cherbourg right now, but the ferry to Portsmouth wasn't running tomorrow, so Caen is an excellent second choice. The weather is crappy, but not too cold. My headcold isn't better, but my tonsils aren't frighteningly swollen anymore. That was creepy, I don't mind telling you - my illness addled brain even thought "what if it swells up so much that I can't breathe?" Though, I think that came out of how great a dislike I have for being ill and especially so when not in my comfort zone.

Bayeux was fantastic. Lovely little town. The tapestry is amazing. First impression is that it is an embroidery, not a tapestry as I've always imagined (woven). It's over 900 years old and the artistry could be contemporary. I was enthralled. The tapestry museum is a little bizarre. The first floor is this written exhibit of what the tapestry depicts. The second floor is the movie of how it came to be made and of what the tapestry depicts. The third floor of the exhibit is the actual tapestry with a free audioguide of - shocker - what the tapestry depicts. Good thing I was feeling poorly because I skipped the first floor.

The gift shop, while filled with tempting merchandise, is outrageously expensive. Still, I did buy myself a little pillow kit to embroider.

Because of my cold I have been staying in hotels since Bruges. This is working out just fine as I've no energy to meet folk and be friendly. Also, I worked many 7 day weeks last year and what is overtime for if not to ensure that my pathetic, coughing, not sneezing, headachey self gets some rest? It's not as if I'm staying in plush places - though Hotel Mogador in Bayeux is delightful.

Yesterday I rested most of the morning and took a D-Day tour. From 1-6 we (an American couple, a Danish girl and myself) were driven around by Arie, the lovely and knowledgeable, guide. We had sunshine and moderate temperatures. The first stop was the American cemetary, which struck me with how grotesque war is; I don't think this is the aim, for it is a beautiful and peaceful spot.

Next was the Omaha Beach Memorial Museum. It is filled with all manner of things - it struck me a bit as something done by a diorama afficionado with a big budget and mannequins. Bits are interesting, but bizarre. There are lots of little things that they found on the beach - tubes of brill cream, coins, forks, helmets, etc. We then went to Omaha beach for a few minutes.

Next was Point du Hoc, where the Rangers climbed the 100 foot cliff only to find the guns they had come to destroy weren't there. Point du Hoc is most disturbing because the allies dropped like 700 tons of bombs on it to knock out the guns (which it turns out had been moved a mile inland); the craters are still there and they are huge.

Next was Utah Beach. The clouds had moved in and it was growing cold. The museum was closed, but we walked onto the beach and Arie gave us an explanation of what took place there. We then headed to Ste. Mére Eglise (where the paratroopers landed on the church). By this point it was cold. The tour was over and we headed back into town. I had a chocolate croissante for dinner.

I headed to Caen this morning.

So. Tonight I plan on eating fish and chips (I know, almost in England, but I can't wait - I need portein and grease and potatoes). To,orrow I leave at 7 for the port, my ferry leaves at 9, and I arrive in Portsmouth at 1:45pm. After that, I' not so certain. I'll let you know.